Guatemala Part 3 – Geography and Geology

South Central Guatemala is a land of volcanoes! On one of our tours someone shared a perspective that Guatemala’s geography is like the U.S. but compressed into 200 miles. In the U.S., the Atlantic Ocean is to the east and the Pacific is to the west; however, in Gautemala the Atlantic is to the north and the Pacific is to the south. And while the Guatemalan distance from Atlantic to Pacific is only 200 miles, the geography changes like it does in the U.S. – smaller mountains near the Atlantic Ocean, a flat plains region, then higher and more rugged mountains (where the volcanoes are concentrated) leading to the rockier shores of the Pacific coastline.

From the town of Antigua, at least 3 volcanoes were readily visible (Agua, Acatenango, and Fuego). During our tour of a church in downtown Antigua, we witnessed Fuego actively emitting smoke.

The second half of our trip we visited Lake Atitlán. This deep lake is about 5 miles in diameter. We learned the lake is actually the caldera of an ancient super volcano. Today, the lake is ringed with younger volcanoes, most of them still active as they are essentially vents for the original volcano.

The region of south central Guatemala is located above three tectonic plates, which accounts for the volcanic activity. The region experiences regular earthquakes and tremors, some of which have destroyed towns. Antigua was once the capital of Guatemala, but when an earthquake in the 16th century destroyed most of the buildings, the capital was moved to its current location in Guatemala City, relatively less active.

The mountains are very steep and roads very windy. Absolutely gorgeous. If you love mountains as I do, Guatemala may become your surprised most-loved central American country.

Guatemala Part 2 – Village Celebration

An hour or two into our mountain bike tour, the route took us up a hill into a rural Guatemalan village. Nothing unusual about that, but the village was having a party. Large tents, maybe 100 people, and a full band playing Christmas carols. We learned that one of the families in town had had a prosperous year and was treating the town to a party. That was pretty cool all on its own, but one of us expected what happened next.

When the host of the party learned we were touring the area on bikes, he insisted we join in the celebration and invited us to sit down for lunch. Our tour leader, Brendon, initially declined but they pressed until he accepted. It was unbelievable how quickly tables and tablecloths and chairs appeared. They set up a spot for us – a group of 10 bike riders! – right there on the road. Plates of food magically appeared, and we sat and rested and ate and celebrated with the village. It was amazing that we arrived just exactly at that moment, and even more amazing they invited us to their feast. They could have simply smiled and given us a friendly wave. You can’t make this stuff up, and I’m now convinced the Guatemalan people are the friendliest on earth.

Guatemala Part 1 – What We Did

We went to Guatemala! Michelle and I had a wonderful trip filled with learning, adventure, new foods, making new friends, and strengthening our relationship. Now on the flight home I’m taking some time to capture our day-by-day activities, mainly so we can remember what we did!

We arrived on Christmas Day 2024 and spent three nights in Antigua, Guatemala followed by three nights in Panajachel, Guatemala for a total of six nights. We returned to Colorado on New Year’s Eve.

DAY 1: Wednesday 12/25 – Travel day

Boulder>Denver>Houston>Guatemala City>Antigua.

Highlights: Dinner at Arrin Cuan. We found this by walking around the neighborhood, and stopping in any place that was open on Christmas. Our first taste of Guatemalan food. Delicious, rich flavors and mainly meat-based dishes.

Lowlights: None! No hiccups in our travel day.

DAY 2: Thursday 12/26 – A day touring Antigua

Highlights:

Cerro de la Cruz. Great way to start the day with a view from a terraced public park above the city.

Eruption of Fuego Volcano. We took this video from the rooftop of Iglesia de la Merced, another church that we toured (Q35 entrance fee*).

Iglesia de La Merced
Vulcan Fuego spewing

Convento la Recoleccion Ruins. This was once a Catholic church and monastery. After the Q40 entrance fee*, you can walk and scramble over the ruins. There are super cool octagonal windows still intact – but check out those cracks!

Ruins at Convento La Recoleccion

* One U.S. dollar is about 7.5-8 Guatemalan Quetzal (GTQ). So Q40 is about $5-6.

Dinner at Hector’s Bistro. We had read about this place in multiple guidebooks, and it was worth seeking it out. Delicious French food. We met a mother/daughter on the plane from Houston. Turned out they were our neighbors at the hotel. And they had dinner at Hectors the same night as us. We sent them a surprise dessert.

Lowlights:

All the cobblestone streets did a great job slowing down the cars. But they also worked our feet, especially Michelle’s.

The ruins at Convento la Recoleccion smelled of urine. Yuck.

DAY 3: Friday 12/27 – Hike a Volcano

We wanted to do some more adventurous hiking, but we didn’t realize how popular the guided hikes were, especially at this time of year which is the busiest for the tour operators. We lucked out with a last-minute cancellation for a hike on Vulcan Pacaya. While the hiking was less extreme than other volcanoes in the area, Pacaya is still an active volcano and we were able to visit one of its lava fields.

Highlights:

‘Skiing’ down the mountainside. The ashen rock was so powdery! Check out Michelle’s dusty footsteps. Kind of reminds me of PigPen from the Peanuts.

Roasting marshmallows over the vents in the lava field. The lava field was formed in the 1976 eruption. It was plenty cool to tread upon, but there were a number of shafts down into the rock where steam was escaping. The steam was hot enough to be uncomfortable on my hand, and it was enough to roast a marshmallow! (The tour guides were ready.)

Lava fields below Vulcan Pacaya
Roasting marshmallows in a steam vent

After the tour (and after a shower), we finished the day with a tasty local meal from a tiny restaurant around the corner from our hotel. The place is called Delicias de Abuelita which translates to Granny’s Delights. This was basically street food (home-made) with a small indoor seating area. We sampled everything on the menu! My favorite was the rellenitos and Michelle liked the doblatas.

Lowlights:

There was an hour-long van ride to the start of the volcano hike. The driving was fine, but we shared the van with a California family – friendly parents but their kids (adult kids, actually) were awful, awful awful!

DAY 4: Sat 12/28 – Mountain Bike around Lake Atitlán

Many highlights from this bike ride – too many too list. We booked our tour through MTB Guatemala. This is a fantastic, professional operation and we totally lucked into it with a last minute sign-up. Brendon (owner and tour guide) worked hard to ensure all the logistics ran smoothly, the equipment was in good shape, and he and Oscar were very conscientious guides. We learned a lot about Guatemala in general and the region specifically. Very highly recommended – we will tour with Brendon again if we can!

Highlight of the trip! Unplanned lunch with local townspeople. This was an awesome experience, something you can’t ever plan, and only happens a few times, if ever, in a lifetime. I wrote a separate post just about this. (Link to Guatemala Part 2 – Village Celebration) This was one of my favorite moments of 2024. Really cool.

Some mountain biking photos:

Lowlights:

None! What an amazing day!

DAY 5: Sun 12/29 – Boat tour of Lake Atitlán and its waterside towns

The lake is surrounded by many villages in which the Maya culture is still present and traditional dress is worn. We had made friends with another couple on the mountain bike tour, and we split the cost hiring a private boat for the day. We visited four towns: Santiago, San Juan, San Marcos, Santa Cruz.

Highlights:

It was fun having other people to connect with. Scott and Jules are from Golden … just a few miles from Boulder! They’re fun, easy-going people and it made for an enjoyable day of shopping and exploring the little towns around the lake.

With Scott and Jules

San Juan is a super colorful city. If there was a race with the other lake-shore towns to win the most tourist dollars, San Jaun has won it by painting Instagram-able murals, banners, and other beautiful engaging decorations throughout the town. Loads of people everywhere. Here is a photo of the main tourist road. Cool umbrellas!

Colorful
Views from the Boat

Lowlights:

San Marcos could have been a much nicer town. Seems like the hippies are too  permissive about the dogs – there is literally dog $h!t everywhere. Disgusting. Also, the town is known as a spiritual destination, with yoga and meditation and massage. However from what we could see, all these places were behind closed or locked doors, as if they wanted to keep the riff-raff out. Maybe they need to do so, but it left an impression like the gringos had taken the town away from the locals.

DAY 6: Mon 12/30 – Rest and relax in Panajachel

After five days of exploring, we enjoyed a day of R&R hanging at our beautiful Bed & Breakfast, called Jenna’s River B&B. It’s located a few hundred feet above the lake, looking out across the water toward two of the volcanoes that ring the lake. We slept in, had a late breakfast, read our books, journeyed into town for a few hours (there is a great museum where we learned a lot about the history and the geology of the region), and packed up for tomorrow’s long travel day.

Lake View from Jenna’s

Highlights:

The museum in Panajachel is small but worth a visit.

Meals at Jenna’s are a home-made affair.

Lowlights:

We wanted to find a nice restaurant in town, but most of the places we saw were tourist-oriented. We settled for another dinner at Jenna’s which was once again delicious.

DAY 7: Tues 12/31 – Travel day

Panajachel>Guatemala City>Houston>Denver>Boulder

Another fairly easy travel day. The flight from Houston>Denver was delayed but not terribly so. The roads surrounding Denver Airport were iced over which made for some white-knuckle driving, but the ice relented as we moved closer to Boulder, and we arrive home safely.

Thank you, Guatemala, for a wonderful visit!

Popular Jersey

Most of the sports that I do are solo endeavors. Rock climbing is an exception – that one is more fun (read: safer) with a partner. But most everything else – running, biking, hiking, snowboarding, snowshoeing, yoga, weightlifting, cardio, core are all things I can – and typically do – pursue by myself.

It’s unusual to engage with the world around me when I exercise. I can turn on some music, or often just let my thoughts run rampant, without interruption or distraction. To be clear, I don’t mind interruptions. It’s kind of nice to interact with other people on the trail or in the gym. But as an introvert I don’t typically initiate any dialogue with others.

So it was a little unusual today, riding my bike up to Jamestown, to have not one but two people strike up a friendly conversation with me. Both times while I was stopped for a break, someone commented on my cycling jersey.

Sending a thank you to my brother, James, who gave me this jersey when he downsized several years ago. I inherited a bunch of great gear, including this jersey that has now created social opportunities (not just today but many other times as well) for this exercising introvert.

And today it happened twice!

Welcome 2023

Paraphrasing some insights from Yuval Noah Harari’s book Sapiens:

Nietzsche said, if you have a why to live, you can bear almost any how.

Happiness is not the surplus of pleasant over unpleasant moments. Rather, happiness consists in seeing one’s life in its entirety as meaningful and worthwhile.

A meaningful life can be extremely satisfying even in the midst of hardship, whereas a meaningless life is a terrible ordeal no matter how comfortable it is.

Over the holidays I spent time in a developing country, and my observations matched Harari’s. I witnessed life, love, gratitude, singing, laughter, support, forgiveness, and a willingness to always be helpful, despite daily physical difficulties and challenging living conditions. Also despite virtually no prospect of seeing circumstances improve in this lifetime.

I returned to my home in Colorado looking around at my American lifestyle, truly an embarrassment of riches.

That’s why my intentions for 2023 have centered on seeing my life in its entirety as meaningful and valuable. All my work colleagues – past and present; all my family – first family, extended family, my life partner and my children; all my friends and acquaintances spread across the decades. You are my tribe, whether we are currently in contact or have fallen out of touch, and I enter 2023 grateful for what we have been to one another. I am excited for what is to come, liberated from my own expectations or preferences of how it ought to be, and ready to lean into the work and the play that makes it all a life worth living.

May we all prosper in the coming weeks, months, and year. Welcome 2023!

Past 7 Days

I recently re-read an old post The Rapture of Being Alive and decided to capture moments of rapture from the past week. For me, experiences of rapture are more than just feel-good moments – they are experiences that open us up, they invite vulnerability, and they make us more freely available to others.

From the past 7 days…

I felt it with Michelle yesterday, as we got deep into conversation about kids and sports and cell phones and growing up.

I felt it Thursday on the Boulder Skyline Traverse hiking with Bart Foster and 40 other amazing business leaders / outdoor adventurists.

I felt it when I texted Dad about the Chaos Walking movie.

I felt it last weekend when Joe and Jack and I were climbing in Boulder Canyon.

I felt it with Quinn at the coffee shop this week, talking about the photography on the walls.

I felt it with Luca this morning, hiking up to the Royal Arch in Boulder, discussing career and friendship and spooky tales of haunted houses.

I felt it last week at lunch with the CFO/COO of the Colorado Mountain Club. Jacob shared some inspiring mountaineering stories, interspersed with business challenges they’re tackling at CMC.

I even felt it playing fetch with the dog, and tug-of-war with a rag.

These are older than 7 days…

I feel it on every exec hike with Geoff.

I feel it every time the Zen Mustache crew takes the stage for a performance. And any time we get together to play music, even if it’s just in the garage.

I felt it riding my bike on paths through the nature preserves south of Chicago.

I felt it camping by myself in the back of the truck, listening to insects chirping and the wind in the forest.

I felt it visiting the Field of Dreams in Iowa.

I felt it laying flooring at my parent’s house, crawling around on my knees, moving appliances, and listening to country music.

Looking at the list above, trying to extract what’s in common. It’s not about the specific activity. Seems that rapture comes from two places:

  • It’s about who I’m with and the openness of that relationship, or:
  • It’s about being open to the moment at hand and immersing completely in the experience – not worried about other things – so the focus is completely present.

Those are moments of rapture, and it turns out they are everywhere.

Peach Pie for Breakfast

I am learning I’m much happier when I stop trying to optimize; stop trying make each moment the best it can be, and instead pay attention to what is already here. This morning I’m in a parking lot east of Des Moines after refueling the truck. Eating half of a peach pie as my breakfast (people eat danishes, I can eat a peach pie) with the early morning sun warming my cheek and the buzzing noises of the interstate as the soundscape. Nothing too special, yet it’s a privilege to experience each of these. Being alive and aware and appreciating it. That’s all there is to it.

Vision Zero

I want to give a shout out to the SUV driver who was making a left turn into a side street this morning. I was coming up the hill on my bike and we would have been in conflict as I entered the intersection, but he held the traffic behind him and waved me through.

#VisionZero is everyone’s responsibility. We clearly have shortcomings and there is a lot of work to do here to keep everyone safe, especially our most vulnerable road users (pedestrians, bikes, wheelchairs, etc). I am heartened to know we do have some people in cars who are watching out for all road users.

North Broadway Reconstruction Conundrum

The North Broadway (Violet – U.S. 36) reconstruction project is scheduled to begin construction in 2020. In 2015, city transportation staff did a marvelous job winning $6.2 million in federal grant funding for this project through the DRCOG TIP program. The total project is budgeted around $8.3 million and by putting up $2.1 million of the city’s own money we are able to get a lot more bang for our buck through the TIP program. We do not want to lose access to this money.

One of the stipulations of the $6.2 million award is to have this project out for bid no later than October 1, 2019. Last Monday, July 8, TAB was asked at its monthly board meeting to provide feedback on the design plan. This was not yet a public hearing item – it was informational only – but nonetheless during the public comment portion of the meeting we heard from nearly 20 individuals in the community regarding their concerns about the North Broadway design. In addition, TAB received dozens of emails before and after Monday’s board meeting, and there also has been a lot of active dialogue about the project on Twitter. The reason: none of the design options put forth by staff do enough for bicycling. The recommended design option offers a 5-ft buffered bike lane — an improvement over the current configuration but nowhere near the grade separated and protected bike infrastructure that have been widely discussed as preferred facilities to truly invite users of all ages and potentially change travel behavior. We heard from the public a wide variety of concerns with similar themes: the design options don’t do enough toward our recently updated 2030 goal to reduce GhG emissions by getting people out of the cars; we aren’t creating 15-minute walkable neighborhoods; paint is not enough to maintain cyclist safety; it’s not about how safe a facility might be, it’s about how safe it feels; we need to lead and create transformative change; this plan is basically perpetuating the status quo; this stretch of road is designated as part of the low-stress network but who would let their 8-yr old child (or 80-yr old parent) ride in a buffered bike lane with 30mph cars (if they are following the proposed speed limit) on one side and cars parked within door-strike range on the other? All these comments point to the same concern – that the design options put forth by staff seem antithetical to our TMP. Yet city transportation staff are the first to admit they would love to do more. What gives?

There are two main reasons for being where we are:

  1. The primary purpose of the grant funding is to reconstruct the roadway along North Broadway in concrete. This is how the grant request was written and approved, and this is what we need to build. As we consider various design alternatives, it’s important to understand there are checks and balances to make sure our use of the federal dollars aligns with the original intention of our application. (For DRCOG funded projects, CDOT is the agency that serves this function and transportation planners will meet with CDOT to get their sign-off on our designs.) Yes, we are allowed to improve multimodal infrastructure as part of the roadway improvements, but for example we can’t switch to asphalt streets instead of concrete to open up some budget for more expensive bike facilities. We can’t shorten the length of roadway that is in scope. At a fundamental level we’re not allowed to change how we use the money.
  2. Construction costs have increased wildly since this project was proposed. Staff historically included a 2% annual inflation rate in its budget estimates, but cost increases have been more like 5-6% since this project was awarded in 2015. There is less we can do with the funding we have, because everything is more expensive now. (Staff has updated their practices to reflect current inflation rates in other projects that have been awarded more recently.)

This leaves us in a quandary. The project was initially slated as a roadway reconstruction project, not a multimodal improvement project. Previous TAB and community input 5 years ago made no objection to the project scope, so it has proceeded on its course. The community is now realizing there will be a huge missed opportunity, one we will be living with for decades, if we don’t make more out of this project now.

As staff listened to TAB feedback and community feedback, it became clear  we are stuck. The proposed designs fall short of community desires. We have to get this project out for bid by October 1 or risk losing the funding altogether. That’s less than 3 months to try to course-correct. (Staff has in the past attempted getting extensions from DRCOG regarding TIP funding, notably on the Baseline Underpass project. This is a tenuous undertaking because other communities who competed for this funding would be happy to grab the money for their projects. So, while it may be possible to request an extension, there are no assurances of success.)

So, what’s next? A couple of things are happening:

  • Staff and TAB have agreed to a special workshop on July 22 from 6-8pm to specifically discuss North Broadway. What other design options are possible, how much additional will they cost, and what are the trade-offs.
  • Staff has offered a 1 hour walking tour of the North Broadway Project area on Thursday, July 18 at 5pm at the northwest corner of Broadway and Violet Avenue.  This is an opportunity to look at existing conditions on site and understand location of the options and ideas for bike facilities to prepare for the working session on July 22.

Both of these events will be publicly noticed; TAB and city staff openly welcomes anyone who wishes to participate.

The good news is that North Broadway is nearly exclusively a city corridor and unlike many other corridors (East Arapahoe, Canyon, 28th St) the city does not share jurisdiction with CDOT or other entities. We have a lot of latitude here. The bad news is there is no ‘slush fund’ in our transportation budget to just reallocate the needed money from somewhere else. TAB recently approved the CIP Budget and there is no money that would be an obvious target for reallocation to North Broadway. How much money are we talking about? As a point of reference, at the July 8 TAB meeting, staff shared some back-of-the-napkin calculations looking at a new option for bike/ped infrastructure proposed by TAB member Alex Weinheimer; this option would add roughly $2.4 million to the project.

We will be brainstorming and reviewing other options, and hopefully we can find a design more desirable than buffered bike lanes while maintaining the original project objective. But it’s unlikely it will be attainable with existing budget. Whatever the revised price tag turns out to be, we’ll need more funding to make it happen. Where will the money come from?

This is my question, and my reason for writing this post. Whatever updated design options we come up with, we will likely need more money.

What are we willing to give up (if the money comes from the transportation budget)?

If we look beyond transportation, my understanding is only money from the city’s General Fund can be allocated to this project. First, is this true? Second, if true then what community activism would be needed to convince the City Manager to free up money for North Broadway?